We are an Authorized Retailer for all of our Manufacturers.

Types of Floors

Choosing the type of hardwood floor that best fits your space and DIY abilities is an important step in planning the installation of your new floor. Before you can begin the task of installation, you should give careful consideration to the type of hardwood floor you want. 

Our Gallery includes pictures of the types of wood chosen by our clients.  They also show the type of work that was done. 

 Please click on the link to see a full gallery of some of our completed jobs. The albumns each have a description of the type of work done.

If you would like to have your home picture placed on our site after completion of your job, please let us know and we will be glad to upload it. 

Floor Shopping Checklist 

Make sure your store visit goes smoothly by going through our simple checklist below.

Before you go:
Consider drawing a simple outline of your room indicating:

·  Room exits 

·  Adjoining room floors – type and color 

·  Sources of sunlight and other lighting

·  Subfloor – what’s underneath (sometimes you can pull up an in-floor heating duct to see).

·  Measurement -length and width, include closets.  This will help you explain your needs to the salesperson.

Bring with you to the store:  

·  Swatches - room fabrics, paint chips.  These will help you match floors with your décor for your room design.  

Questions the salesperson may ask you:
 

Durability/Performance        

·  Is there light or heavy traffic in this room?

·  What is the room used for?

·  Do you have children or pets?

·  How long do you want this flooring to last?

·  Is there a door to the outside in the room?

Style/Appearance   

·  Do you have a certain color in mind?

·  What are the room's lighting sources?

·  What types of furnishings do you have?

·  What's the style of the room? Traditional? Contemporary? Rustic?

·  What's the feel of the room? Casual? Formal? Somewhere in between?  

Questions you may want to ask the salesperson: 

·  Estimate - Do charges apply?

·  Samples – Available to take home?

·  Underlayment – What type is required?

·  Warranties on flooring – What is offered?

Installation   

·  What is the cost?

·  What is the installation procedure?

·  Who handles appliance and fixture removal and replacement?

·  Who disposes of old flooring?

·  Are new moldings, wall base and toe kick required?

·  Will the new flooring add height to the room?

·  Are installers certified?

Installation Methods

You've chosen the type of floor you want. You've even chosen the type of finish you want. Now, it's time to install your new floor. But, first, you have to make one last decision. There are four hardwood floor installation methods from which to choose:

• Nail Down - Nails are used to fasten the wood to the subfloor. This method is often used with thin wood flooring.
• Staple Down - Staples are used instead of nails to attach the floor to the subfloor. This method is simpler than the nail down method.
• Glue Down - Engineered wood floors and parquets can be glued down. The wood is adhered to the subfloor with a strong adhesive.
• Floating - This is the fastest and easiest method of installation. Floating floors are not attached to any subfloor, they simply float above it. Either adhesive is applied to the boards to keep them together, or the boards are made to simply snap together. Usually a pad is placed between the wood floor and the subfloor to protect against moisture and reduce noise. Floating floors can be installed over almost any surface.

Several manufacturers have created floating installation systems that are very easy for the consumer to install themselves -- making this an excellent option for those of you interested in a DIY project. Because this is the best possible option for DIY-ers, let's go over the steps for installing a floating hardwood floor.

Installing a Floating Wood Floor

Preparation
Before you begin installing your hardwood floors, you must first read all the manufacturer's instructions. These instructions will tell you the exact method of preparing and laying the floor. Different wood floors may need different treatments, so make sure your read the instructions carefully.

Because the hardwoods are not actually being attached to it, a floating hardwood floor can be installed over almost any kind of subfloor. Preparation of the subfloor is extremely important. First, the subfloor must be clean. Then, make sure the subfloor is level or even. You can test this by laying a plank of wood on its edge. Is there any space between the wood and the subfloor? If there is space of more than 3/4 of an inch, you will need to spread some self-leveling joint compound on the floor. Once it dries, your subfloor should be adequately level.

Next, you'll want to decide in what direction you intend to lay the flooring. Many people will take into account where the light enters the room as well as the entrances and exits. Usually, floating floors can be laid in any direction. Pick the one that best suits your tastes and the environment. Now that the preparation is complete, let's take a look at the tools you'll need to complete the job.

Tools
In general, the tools you will need for this job are:

• Glue Spacers
• Pull tool 
• Tapping block  
• Chalk line
• Hammer
• Ruler
• Straps
• Saw

These tools can be purchased at any home improvement store. Don't forget to check the manufacturer's instructions to see if any additional tools are necessary.  

Go back to the top 

Installation

The first three rows of the floor are the most important. They should be straight and the all the joints should fit snugly. Use clamps and straps to keep all the connections tight. Your goal is to prevent the installed planks from opening up as you tap the next planks into place.

The most common way of attaching planks of wood in a floating installation is to use an adhesive between the joints of the wood planks. To apply the glue, you will run a bead of glue along the joint or edge of the wood. You will then snap that piece into the first piece you set down.

Plan where you want the planks of wood before you begin gluing. Remember that the glue dries in seven to ten minutes, so you want to be clear on placement. Try not to use too much glue. You can wipe away any excess glue with a rag. You'll also have to make wood cuts during installation. It's a good idea to measure twice. You don't want to end up with a lot of useless scraps instead of adequate floor boards!

Insert the plank and knock the pieces together with a hammer and a tapping block (a small scrap of wood). A tapping block is used to protect the tongue or edge of the plank from damage. Never knock on the tongue without a tapping block and always hold the tapping block tightly pressed to the tongue. Knock very gently to close the gaps. It's better to knock often, but softly, than it is to knock a few times forcefully.

If the planks are not fitting together, check for something trapped underneath the floor, too much glue, or dirt in the grooves. There should be no space between the joints if the planks are installed correctly. If any tongue is visible between the planks, gently wiggle the planks free and check for problems. If the problem isn't evident, you may want to use a different plank. Re-glue before replacing the planks.

While knocking the planks together, drive in the direction of the joint that you are trying to close. Remember that it's virtually impossible to adjust the joints once the floor has set. So, you need to plan your work carefully.

Continue laying the floor by gluing planks together and gently tapping them into place. You must leave space around the edge of the room for the wood to expand and contract. Keep in mind that wood is a living thing and changes with time and temperature. Molding will usually cover this gap. The manufacturer's instructions can also give you tips about how much space to leave for expansion.

When you have most of the floor installed, you will run out of room for a tapping block. At this point, use a pulling iron and hammer to draw the planks together. Again, it's a good idea to use a small scrap of wood with a groove, in order to protect the wood.

To protect the floor's finish while you're completing the installation, make sure you have a towel or soft cloth available on which to set your tools and kneel. After you've finished installation, it's time to add transitions, trim and base molding to cover all the expansion spaces. Then, let the floor set according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Wood Finishes 

A finish is a top coat that will protect your floor from everyday wear and tear. The finish is also what gives the floor its color and luster. Finishes are a great way to personalize your hardwood floors. Whether you like light-colored wood or dark, a satin finish or high-gloss, the options are endless.

When considering finishes, you need to decide whether you want to apply it yourself or buy pre-finished flooring. Pre-finished flooring offers a wide variety of wood species and saves hours of labor and cleanup, while unfinished wood floors allow you to have a customized finish. Though pre-finished flooring can cost as much as $1.50 more per square foot than unfinished, it may save you some mistakes. You also get an extended factory finish warranty with pre-finished floors. Regardless of whether you opt for pre-finishing or finishing the floor yourself, you will need to know what types of finishes are available.

There are two kinds of hardwood finishes: surface finishes and penetrating finishes.

Surface Finishes
Surface finishes are the most popular kind. They require a stain to achieve the desired color and then a top coat of polyurethane or varnish for protection. Surface finishes are easy to maintain and quite durable. The four surface finishes are:

• Oil-Based Urethane - The most common surface finish, oil-based urethane is applied in two or three coats and is available in gloss, semi-gloss and satin sheens. The downside to this type of finish is the drying time -- up to 8 hours for each coat. You will also need adequate ventilation. And, keep in mind that oil-based urethane finishes do yellow with age.
• Water-Based Urethane - A good option for the DIY-er, this finish dries quickly and cleans up easily with soap and water. Water-based urethane has less odor than oil-based urethane and doesn't yellow over time.
• Moisture-Cured Urethane - Slightly more durable than others, this finish is most often used on commercial projects and is best handled by a professional.
• Conversion Varnish - Because of the strong odor and fumes, this finish should only be applied by a professional.

Penetrating Finishes
Penetrating finishes penetrate the wood deeper than surface finishes. The finish soaks into the wood and then a wax is applied to give a low-gloss sheen. With this finish, wax needs to be reapplied periodically and only certain cleaners can be used on the floor. For this reason, surface finishes may be a better bet for the non-professional installer.

Next, as if there weren't enough options already, you also have to select the sheen of your finish. Sheen is the shine of the floor. You can choose from high gloss (very shiny), low gloss or satin finish.

Though high gloss finishes look professional, they show scratches more easily. Low gloss or satin finishes are typically used in residential hardwood floor installations. Keep in mind that if you go with pre-finished flooring, you will need to make the finishing decisions when you order the product.  

Finishing the Floor

Installing hardwood floors on your own can be an arduous task. You may not want to make your job any harder by deciding to finish the floor yourself, too. Remember, you can always use pre-finished wood. But if you'd rather do it all yourself, you can get a professional look on your own. It just takes planning. Here's a quick list of what you need to do to finish the floor yourself.

• Let the wood rest at the site before attempting to finish it.
• Prepare the room by sealing off doorways with plastic. This will help maintain a consistent temperature and level of humidity.
• Hardwood floors need to be sealed on all sides. You may want to pre-coat areas that you won't be able to reach after installation. You don't need to seal the back of strip flooring, but it is recommended for wide plank flooring.
• Hardwood floors require a minimum of three sandings. Each one with increasingly finer grades of sandpaper. Make sure you sweep and vacuum up dust thoroughly after each sanding.
• Apply stain generously with a brush or rag. Let the stain sink in and then remove the excess.
• Brush on the finish coat when the stain is dry. Let it dry according to the product's directions.
• Sand the floor with 150-to-180 grit sandpaper, steel wool or an abrasive pad. Then, wipe the surface clean.
• Sand, clean and coat the floors again. It usually takes multiple coats to get the look you want.

 Refinishing Your Floors 

• The great thing about wood floors is that they can last forever with proper care. No matter how careful you are with your hardwoods, though, you will still have to refinish them at some point. If your floors take a beating, from pets for example, you may have to refinish more often. Some floors only need to be refinished every three years, some high traffic floors may need more frequent refinishing. If you've ever finished a wood floor yourself, then refinishing will seem easy. To refinish a floor, all you do is sand it and reapply the finishing product to protect and seal the wood.
• If you're wondering how you can tell that your floors need to be refinished, there is a test you can take. First, find a high-traffic area where the finish is likely to be most worn and pour a tablespoon of water onto the floor. If the water beads up and you can wipe it without a trace, the finish is still working and you don't need to refinish. If the water slowly soaks into the wood floor creating a moderately darkish spot, the floor is partially worn. You don't need to refinish right away, but you'll want to save room on your "to do" list. If the water immediately disappears into the wood leaving an obvious dark spot, it's time to refinish the floor.  

Trowel Specifications